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First Guard

The Sônia Bogner collection is bringing back a truly timeless classic with an incredible history.

"Tradition & Rebellion..."

We’ve known the look for centuries: from the embellished pillows in 1001 Arabian Nights, to the robes of the highest-ranking church officials, to the regalia of the French military – goldwork has been a symbol of status for over 2000 years. Bullion-goldwork in particular has always been especially prized. Not having anything to do with soup, the term “bullion” is actually an archaic English word for gold or silver bars, which relates to the style of the goldwork: thin silk threads are pulled through long, hollow golden threads which look like bars.


Sônia Bogner recently re-encountered goldwork as it’s used in fashion while visiting an historical exhibition. There she saw an example of an older French military regalia jacket with its signature goldwork breast, coattail and cuff adornment, which inspired her to create her own version.

Jimi Hendrix

How does Sônia Bogner design a military regalia jacket? Easy: a high-collared, soft jacket of virgin wool with sporty zipper closures at the front and on the pockets in place of standard buttons. Adorned, of course, with stunningly intricate bullion-goldwork decorating the breast on both sides of the zipper.


“Lightly scuffed antique military jackets have always appealed to me because of the way musicians in the 1960’s wore them – open over a pair of corduroys,” explained Sônia. “It was the perfect mix of tradition and rebellion.”

Daphne du Maurier, 1947

Sônia wore the jacket over jeans herself, but it could also be worn with a sleek pair of trousers or an elegant cocktail dress. “It feels like you’re just wearing a denim jacket, but it makes you look like a million dollars,” Sônia said. She also highlighted the fact that the jacket doesn’t just look incredible, but it’s actually warm too. “Any woman who spends her evenings freezing is not truly free.”

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